경기열 Kee-yeol Kyong , 이천구 Cheon-koo Lee

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Abstract

Emulsion is a dispersion system among liquids which are not miscible together. There are numerous cosmetic raw materials which have different physicochemical properties. Therefore, emulsion technology is very useful in cosmetics. With the development of emulsifier, several emulsification technologies have been developed. Since HLB method by Griffin in 1950's, PIT method, gel method, and D-phase methods, etc, have been developed. Recently, the application of natural emulsifier and polymeric emulsifier increases in cosmetics in order to achieve enhanced safety and biocompatibility. Besides nano-emulsion, multiple-emulsion, liquid crystal emulsion, and Pickering emulsion have been developed and applied as means of differentiating appearance and texture of products and achieving enhanced delivery of active ingredients. Meanwhile, the application studies of nano-dispersed structural system such as liposome or cubosome are on progress. Liposome is a bi- or multi-lamella layer dispersion system composed of amhiphilic molecules - phospholipids which are main components of plasma membrane. Cubosome also is a nano-sized dispersion system composed of a specific molecule like glyceryl monoloeate derived from natural products. And it has a cubic bicontinuous structure in water due to its unique molecular structure. Incorporating compounds (active materials) into such nano-particles can increase biocompatibility and delivery efficiency of target compounds. Manufacturing process and application of cosmetic emulsions and nano-particles are briefly introduced in this paper.

Key Words

cosmetic emulsion, emulsification method, liposome, cubosome

이대우 Dae-woo Leet , 김영진 Young-jill Kim , 김영실 Young-sil Kim , 엄상용 Sang-yong Eorn , 김종헌 Jong-heon Kim

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Abstract

In this study, we evaluated anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-inflammatory effects of Elsholtzia ciliata extract for use as the cosmeceuticals. Elsholtzia ciliata extracts (30, 70 and 100% methanol extract) exhibited a significant tree radical scavenging effect (up to 80% over 0.025% concentration of 30 and 70% methanol extract, over 0.01% concentration of 100% methanol extract) against DPPH radical generation and showed a significant inhibitory effect (up to 80% over 0.1% concentration) on melanin synthesis in B-16 Melanoma cells. We separated 4 fractions from Elsholtzia ciliata extract (70% methanol extract) by MPLC. The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd fractions showed anti-oxidation (DPPH radical scavenging activity and suppressive effect on Mn-SOD), whitening(inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis) and anti-inflammatory (suppressive effects on IL-1α, IL-6, COX-2, and total NO synthesis) effects.

Key Words

Elsholtzia ciliata, anti-oxidation, melanogenesis, anti-inflammation, IL-1α

이정노 Jung Noh Lee , 김상우 Sang Woo Kim , 유영경 Young Kyoung Yoo , 이강태 Ghang Tai Lee , 이건국 Kun Kook Lee

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Abstract

Wrinkle formation is mainly attributed to the environmental factors such as UV rays, air pollution, smoking and stress etc. Especially, UV rays induce premature skin aging which is characterized by deep wrinkle, leathery dryness etc. Recently, researches on the wrinkle formation and its prevention have been the main theme in cosmetics fields. We have studied the various plant extracts having anti-wrinkle effects and finally showed that Noni (Morinda citrifolia) extracts have the efficacy of promoting the type I collagen synthesis in normal human fibroblast, using PICP assay. We purified one active compound from Noni extracts and identified its structure. It was identified as 6,7-Dimethoxy-2H-1-Benzopyran-2-one; scopoletin by ¹H-NMR, ¹³C-NMR, IR, Mass analysis. Scopoletin increased collagen synthesis in a dose dependent manner (89.5% at 0.2 μg/mL). In order to verify the anti-aging effectiveness of the cream containing 3% noni extracsts, we performed the in vivo test with some female volunteers for 12 weeks. It reduced the signs of aging, especially face wrinkles. From these results, we conclude that the noni extracts could be used as an useful anti-wrinkle agent.

Key Words

anti-wrinkle, noni extracts, scopoletin, collagen, morinda ci.trifolia

김미례 Mi-rye Kim , 양시용 Si-yong Yang , 한태영 Tae-young Han , 서성준 Seong-jun Seo

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Abstract

This study was carried out for the evaluation of the effects of emulsion containing the specific antibodies against S. aureus that secreted staphylococcal toxins in atopy dermatitis (AD). The emulsion was formulated to have basic moisturizing effect and the function to inhibit S. aureus colonization and Staphylococcal toxins. The results were as follows; 1. In 19 subjects, 14 subjects (73.7%) showed improvement in SCORAD the mean SCORAD score was improved by 21.87% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). 2. In 17 subjects with severe lesions, 14 subjects(82.35%) showed improvement in SCORAD; the mean SCORAD score was improved by 25.11% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). 3. In 19 subjects, 15 subjects (79%) showed improvement in TEWL; the mean TEWL was improved by 24.32% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). 4. In 17 subjects with severe lesions, 14 subjects (82.35%) showed improvement in TEWL; the mean TEWL was improved by 25.47% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). 5. In 19 subjects, 15 subjects (79%) showed improvement in keratin capacitance; the mean keratin capacitance was improved by 25.01% at week 4 compared to pre-application (P < 0.05). 6. In 17 subjects with severe lesions, 13 subjects (76.47%) showed improvement in keratin capacitance; the mean keratin capacitance was improved by 20.82% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). Based on above-described results, emulsion containing the specific antibodies against S. aureus that secreted staphylococcal toxins is considered to be helpful in the improvement of atopic dermatitis.

Key Words

atopic dermatitis, SCORAD, TEWL, capacitance, staphylococcus aureus

김남경 Nam-kyoung Kim , 김미화 Mi-hwa Kim , 윤창순 Chang-soon Yoon , 최신욱 Shin Wook Choi

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Abstract

This work was carried out to investigate the anti-inflammatory effects of Paulownia coreana Uyeki on abirritant, atopy and acne skin. Paulownia coreana Uyeki has been used as a traditional medicine having anti-febrile, anti-inflammation effect in Korea, Paulownia coreana Uyeki loaves were extracted with 70% EtOH. Its superoxide anion radical scavenging activity and inhibitory effect on LPS-induced NO production were examined. The extract inhibitied the generation of NO and PGE₂ induced by LPS in the macrophage cell line (Raw 264.7). Consistent with the inhibitory effects on No and PGE₂ generation, the extract inhibited expression of iNOS and COX-2. In further study, it was found that the extract prevented IkB-α degradation, as demonstrated by western blot analysis of IkB-α protein level. However, the extract treatment did not affect cell viability at 100 μg/mL concentration in both human skin fibroblast and Raw 264.7 cells in vitro. Thus, the present study suggests that Paulownia coreana Uyeki leaves extract have significant anti-inflammatory activity and potential as an anti-irritation material.

Key Words

anti-inflammatory effect, superoxide anion radical scavenging activity, Paulownia coreana Uyeki, IkB-α

이대우 Dae-woo Leet , 김영진 Young-jin Kim , 김영실 Young-sil Kim , 엄상용 Sang-yong Eorn , 김종헌 Jong-heon Kim

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Abstract

In this study, we evaluated anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-inflammatory effects of Ardisia crenata for use as the cosmeceuticals. Ardisia crenata extract (70% MeOH) showed a significant free-radical scavenging effect (up to 90% over at the concentration of 0.01 %) against DPPH radical generation and showed a significant inhibitory effect (up to 50% over at the concentration of 0.05 %) on melanin synthesis in B16 meanoma cells. We separated 5 fractions from Ardisia crenata extract (70% MeOH) by MPLC. The 3rd, 4th, and 5th fractions showed the anti-oxidation (DPPH radical scavenging activity and supressive effect on Mn-SOD), whitening (inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis) and anti-inflammatory (supressive effects on IL-1α, IL-6, COX-2 and total NO synthesis) effects

Key Words

Ardisia crenata, anti-oxidation, melanogenesis, anti-inflammation, IL-1α

김성우 Sung Woo Kim , 김형배 Hyeong Bae Kim , 이건국 Kun Kook Lee

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Abstract

The aim of this study is to assess the anti-irritation activities of Rheum undulatum L. extract against various irritants. In order to investigate the anti-inflammation effects of Rheum undulatum L. extract on keratinocytes, we measured the quantities of interleukin 8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor α(TNF α) secreted by cultured human keratinocytes. As the results, Rheum undulatum L. extract inhibited the secretion of these cytokines dosage-dependently. We also investigated the anti-inflammation effects of Rheum undulatum L. extract against irritant skin reactions induced by 3 mM Methyl nicotinate. The flush was significantly decreased by application of O/W emulsion containing Rheum undulatum L. extract. In the primary irritation test, when Rheum undulatum L. extract was included in O/W emulsion containing 5.0% lactic acid, its considerable anti-irritation effect was revealed. In a in-use test, we confirmed the excellent anti-irritation effect of O/W emulsion containing Rheum undulatum L. extract.

Key Words

Rheum undulatum L, anti-irritation, cosmetics, IL-8, TNFα

김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 나영 Young Na , 심관섭 Gwan Sub Sim , 이범천 Bum Chun Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

Antioxidative and anti-inflammatory activities of Petasites japonicus extract were evaluated. P. japonicus extract showed 70.1% inhibition on peroxidation of linoleic acid. In the experiment using the cell permeable dye, 2',7'- dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFDA) as an indicator of reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, intracellular oxidative stress in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes was shown to be decreased by P. japonicus extract. Also, UVB-induced production of interleukin-1α and prostaglandin E2 in human HaCaT keratinocytes was reduced in a dose-dependent manner by treatment with P. japonicus extract. All these results suggest that P. japonicus extract can be effectively used for prevention of UV-induced adverse skin reactions such as radical production and inflammation.

Key Words

Petasites japonicus, antioxidation, inflammation, keratinocytes, cytokine

김주덕 Ju-duck Kim , 김지영 Jee-young Kim , 김선희 Seon-hee Kim

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Abstract

In this study, we tried to scrutinize the status and problems of domestic cosmetics industry. On the basis of theoretical study, we examined the strategic marketing skill and tactics of foreign products to devise a strategy for domestic cosmetics with the help of marketing mix of foreign competitors: so to say 4 Ps. The core of the empirical research is hereby the effect of consumers' behavior. The conclusion of the research can be summarized as following: the most important problem of domestic cosmetics industry is the poor brand power. It has been confirmed that the consumer needs are various and dynamic. Analysis of 4 Ps of marketing factors of foreign goods shows this very clearly. Consumers tend to rely upon the brand name of the product rather than the quality, when they don't have enough information or knowledge on the product. This conclusion teaches us to make an effective strategy of marketing. It is brand power and brand cultivating. This study may give domestic marketers a motive to predict the future and succeed in existence and prosperity.

Key Words

cosmetics, marketing factors, band power, 4Ps (Product, Price, Place, Promotion)

최윤정 Yoon Jung Choi , 김주덕 Ju-duck Kim

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Abstract

The domestic market of oriental herbal cosmetics has rapidly grown in the last few years. In this study, we investigated female consumers' cosmetics-buying behavior to know their appreciation of oriental herbal cosmetics. We also tried to deduce the strategies for growth and development of the oriental herbal cosmetics market in the future. A survey was conducted with women ranging in age from 20 to 50, who resided in Seoul; a total of 400 questionnaires were distributed and then 344 copies of those. were collected and analyzed statistically. This study provides basic information about the present status of oriental herbal cosmetics market and the real state of the cosmetic consumption. The consumers needs identified in this study, provides basic data in setting a marketing strategy for the oriental herbal cosmetics market.

Key Words

oriental herbal cosmetics, marketing factors, cosmetics-buying behavior